Robert Parker on Andre Brunel

André Brunel, who resembles the movie actor William Hurt, must be in his early fifties, but he looks ten years younger. He has always been one of the more serious producers in Châteauneuf du Pape, and I am thrilled to write that since I first reported on his wines 10 years ago, the quality at Les Cailloux has risen higher and higher. From this 52-acre estate, André Brunel produces powerful yet rich, elegant, concentrated wines that have gone from strength to strength since the late eighties. His vineyards are morsellated, but a large segment is planted near Mont Redon, on the famed galets roulés. Brunel, who took over from his father in the early seventies, comes from a family that has lived in Châteauneuf du Pape since the eighteenth century. His enthusiasm and leadership qualities have not gone unnoticed in the village, where he has a prominent position with one of the 2 syndicates that govern the appellation, as well as his own growers' group, Les Reflets.

Brunel has never been content to rest on his accomplishments, always challenging the old ways while examining and questioning newer methods. He has gradually increased the percentage of Roussanne in the very good white wine made at Les Cailloux, and in the red, Syrah and Mourvèdre have taken on increasing importance in the final blend. In 1989 Brunel launched a limited-production Cuvée Centenaire, made from a 5.6-acre parcel of vines that were planted in 1989. This wine is primarily Grenache.

The flexible approach to winemaking that exists at Les Cailloux extends to Brunel's position on destemming. Since Brunel recognized that the stems were often not physiologically mature and imparted too much acidity and bitterness, virtually all of the Mourvèdre and most of the Syrah and Grenache have been destemmed. Prior to 1988, Brunel kept an open mind with respect to fining and filtration. In vintages where the wine did not fall bright and clear, he did a minimal fining and filtering. In those years where there were no suspended protein or haziness, the wines were bottled unfiltered. However, since the 1988 vintage, Brunel decided to eliminate both fining and filtration for his red wines. The Cuvée Centenaire has always been bottled unfiltered.

Brunel's wines were good though lacking consistency in the 70s and early 80s, but they have been in top form since the late eighties. His Châteauneuf du Pape is usually drinkable when released, but it is capable of 10-15 years of aging. The Cuvée Centenaire is a wine of extraordinary opulence and richness, and although very drinkable young, it is capable of lasting for 2 decades or more. André Brunel is one of the bright shining lights of Châteauneuf du Pape.